
It rains a lot here and we talk about it raining even more. The weather dominates our lives and our conversations. We hate the rain, we hate the sun, we hate the summer and we hate the winter – and they can all happen in one day here. Actually we see the sun so infrequently that it has been a thing of awe, wonder and worship throughout the ages. “What is that big white thing in the sky and why has it made all the skin peel off my nose?”
“No idea, but let’s build a big stone circle for it: give it a little slit to shine through on the Spring solstice – if the fog lifts…”
The seasons here are actually quite well defined: Winter – cold rain; Spring – squally rain; Summer – warm rain, and Autumn – rain with the kind of winds that bring down chimneys and find the gaps in the double glazing that the salesman assures you are not there. This is a country where rain is a constant companion, yet we are never ready for it. The UK is perpetually filled with dripping people who never thought to bring a raincoat. A man carrying an umbrella – other than on a golf course – must expect the most detailed scrutiny of his manhood. Keeping your head dry can lead to public ridicule and, ultimately, the sack – ask Steve McClaren (a former England football manager who, despite never actually being remotely up to the job, eventually got the sack as a result of standing under an umbrella in a downpour.)
Despite the volume of water that falls with monotonous regularity onto us on this emerald isle, we teeter constantly on the verge of drought. It takes no more than 48 hours without a drenching before the newsreaders start predicting a hosepipe ban. These islands are formed not of rock, but of colander. Each house has as many rain barrels latched to it as it has downpipes. It really wouldn’t matter if we were told that we could not take a shower as long as we have something green and slimy to pour over the hanging baskets in the evening. Having withered floral arrangements outside the house is tantamount to pleading guilty to genocide around these parts.
And we are just emerging from ‘the driest Spring in sixty-eight years’: it is probably hours since it last rained. (I am, incidentally, totally convinced by global warming, but at the same time intrigued by how much hotter/wetter it appears it was in the middle of the last century. Each time I hear ‘this is officially the hottest summer for a decade’ it immediately strikes me that it must have been even hotter ten years ago.) We find ourselves scouring street corners for the appearance of ‘stand-pipes’ and combing the skies for waterboard drones on the look out for unusually verdant lawns. We will almost certainly have a summer that will find me building an ark. We are quick on our feet here: we can switch from drought to flood in seconds.
The climate is definitely changing: when I was a child winters were cold, it snowed. We rarely see snow these days. We get a slightly colder rain. We are all dreaming of a white Christmas as we make our mild and mizzly way to grandma’s on Christmas Day.
I have red hair and the kind of pale skin that, naked, make me look like an overweight match. The sun – although I love it – is not good for me, but I loathe the cold. Being cold is always miserable, but being cold and wet is the absolute pits. You can put on as many layers of clothing as you like, but as long as you are wet underneath them, you will always be wretched, like the sandwiches under the Perspex dome on a midnight bar – dry on the outside but gently putrefying underneath.
I am not cold today. I am sitting at a little table in the conservatory watching the sky open out into morning. There is no prospect of rain today. The radio tells me that the drought is set to continue and I begin to worry about the garden. It has not started to wilt yet, but I am alert for the first signs. My rain barrels are filled and ready for action, and I need to make a little bit of room in them before it starts to rain again…




